Ultimate Duragloss Product Thread

My AW is lasting 2 months on the cars I'm testing it on.



I expect 105 to last at least 4-6 months on 1-2 coats, without PBA. With PBA, likely longer. Topping 105 with AW would get you to 1 year durability from 105 for sure.



So far, the 105 and AW are holding up very well, considering my car is outside 24/7. 105, like the AW, produces very tight beading, and I have noticed no degredation of the tight/small beading from the 1 coat I applied about a month ago.



I would like to completely strip my hood and do 1/2 with 105 and the other 1/2 with Zaino. I think the results would be very interesting.
 
Gaz7 said:
For step 2 (2. Perform any necessary paint cleaning, polishing, and swirl removing (i.e. claybar, SMR, etc).) does anyone have any feedback on using the Duragloss polishes? Duragloss polish and cleaner or Duragloss ClearCoat Polish?



Gareth :)
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I tried the PC2 and was disappointed by the result. I bought the Aquawax, 105, 601 and the PC2. Though my car's paint condition is very good, very minor swirls and scratches that you won't even feel with your nails. Scratch X worked for a while but being a female with 5'3" frame and 102 lbs., I just could not exert the kind of "passion" needed for the Scratch X to work, so I thought of using the Duragloss PC2. I am very happy with the rest of the product, but the PC2 is very disappointing.
 
Asiansmile said:
Scratch X worked for a while but being a female with 5'3" frame and 102 lbs., I just could not exert the kind of "passion" needed for the Scratch X to work, so I thought of using the Duragloss PC2. I am very happy with the rest of the product, but the PC2 is very disappointing.
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Swirl/scratch removal by hand is almost impossible for most people. When you are working on a very small area with something like Scratch-X, you can do it, but it's hard for anyone to have enough "passion" for the whole car by hand; you need to go to a machine.
 
It might be better to think of products like the Duragloss PC2 and SMR as "cleaners +" as opposed to true polishes.



They are designed to clean and condition the paint in preparation for an LSP and also remove very minor water spots, scratches, and swirl marks by hand.



As Setec points out, for serious paint repair/restoration of scratches/swirls you have to go to a PC.
 
Milestones said:
It might be better to think of products like the Duragloss PC2 and SMR as "cleaners +" as opposed to true polishes.



They are designed to clean and condition the paint in preparation for an LSP and also remove very minor water spots, scratches, and swirl marks by hand.



As Setec points out, for serious paint repair/restoration of scratches/swirls you have to go to a PC.
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Absolutely agree, spot on. Any serious polishing needs to be done with other product lines, as DG doesn't offer anything for deep surface correction. For very light paint cleaning or minor webbing, DG may work, but you're better off going with a true polish, i.e. Optimum, Menzerna, etc, first, and then follow with 105.
 
the PC-2 and SMR are for light corrections..not any heavy stuff...lite marring..buffer swirls..hazing....do not try to do a spiderwebbed car with it...or you be there all day..



The SMR does good for lite marring..I tried it on my truck and a new Solstice and it took out the lite stuff no problems...but to do a swirled up car..forget it..it is more of a finish type polish...more like a stronger type AIO..as it does leave some protection also...



The PC-2 will remove oxidation..and paint transfers..lite-medium marring....but again..not for heavy stuff that would take something like OHC or PG or Extreme Cut to correct...



They do work a long time..and never had them dust...



DG said they would not make any heavy cut compounds as there is to much on the market now to compete with...they want more into the final finish products...



AL
 
That's what i was feeling from what people have said - the DG range works well for hand use, and is more 'final finish' than defect correction. When referring to polishing earlier, i guess i was getting at what hand polishes they did to clean the paint ready for LSP, rather than to correct more serious flaws. It seems to be a nice range for those working by hand, wanting a nice shine, but without trying to correct any swirling they may have.



AL-53, which would you prefer out of SMR and PC-2, to use over a whole vehicle by hand?



Gareth :)
 
There was no 105 locally avialable. So I ordered it online. Yesterday I polished with Mothers PowerPolish and a PC. That got a good chuck of my swirls. I then used a PC to apply Duragloss SMR and that got most of ther est of the swirls after I removed by hand. I dont think it got rid of them, just covered them up. I didnt have the time to actually remove them all. Anyways, I used the bonder and some 111 and did the car up with that. Topped it off with some AW after I was done with the 111. This stuff is very nice.



SMR was a PITA to remove...lol, but the results were worth it.



I plan on putting on another two coats of #105 when it shows up.



This is all on a black RX8. I'll take pictures whenever I can find a good camera..haha. :getdown
 
A couple of other questions... One that someone mentioned earlier i think...



How do the DG products fair on unpainted plastics? Do they mark them or are the products plastic safe?



And...



Application... Can they be used in the sun, or are they shade only products?



Gareth :)
 
Gaz7 said:
A couple of other questions... One that someone mentioned earlier i think...



How do the DG products fair on unpainted plastics? Do they mark them or are the products plastic safe?



And...



Application... Can they be used in the sun, or are they shade only products?



Gareth :)
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i have had no problems w/ DG products leaving marks/residue on trim/plastic parts. if you have used Zaino, it is virtually identical in that aspect.



application...no problems at all in sun or shade. i've used it in full sun, in the shade, and also in a very humid garage w/out problems.
 
I have not had it stain plastic yet..I treat the trim plastic first anyways..so like I said..no stains so far...and I have alot of black trim..and other cars I have done show no staining..



and it does work in the sun...but I would believe to an extent...not on a car thats been in 110 degree sun all day..lol...but I have used it on cars in full sun...and goes on good and removes good..no problems



Al
 
Paradigm/AL-53 - thanks again :) I have a clearer picture in my mind now of which DG products i'd like to try, as the AquaWax was very good.



Have you tried their tire shine?



Gareth :)
 
lawrencea said:
I picked up a bottle of 601 today. I know that it extends the durability but does it make the paint shinier and deeper.
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hard to say..you never buff it off...lol...it just leaves a film on paint and you apply 105 right over it ....but DG did say it does ad to the gloss



Al
 
[quote name='lawrencea']I picked up a bottle of 601 today. I know that it extends the durability but does it make the paint shinier and deeper.[/QUOTE



I believe from my experience that 601 makes 111 more glossy. It also makes it easier to apply. 111 can be a bit difficult to spread thin. 105 is probably easier to wrk with tho.
 
I found that using a terry applicator for the 601 works good...as the 601 will clean off any surface contaminents..even after a polish it will clean paint...



for the 111 or 105 sealants..a Meg's foam applicator works best..you can really get it thin with it...I gave the pad a very very lite mist of AW to prime it so you do not start with a dry pad..and it helped to spread easy and spread longer using less product...once pad is primed you can spred forever...now I found I could spread 111 very thin...it is a creamy liquid...and a little goes a longway...105 is more semi liquid..and spreads forever..



now that cool weather is moving in..you may want to let it haze longer...45-60 minutes...it was 65 out today...and did a truck in the sun to keep it warm..to flash a bit faster than in the shade...and it hazed in about 30 minutes but I left it longer while I did the wheels and tires...



it came out real nice...buffed off like a champ...funny thing though...the truck had some very slight marring on the hood...very minute but could see in the sun....I gave the hood a second coat and roof...I always do 2 on top surfaces to ensure complete coverage..and after buffing the second coat off...you could not see the marring...it was very slight to begin with..but was gone after coat 2..so I believe it does fill to a point...



We will wash it this week end after being on a construction site the next couple days and do a AW on it..and give it coat 2 next week...



Al
 
Anyone tried adding Klasse AIO as a base befor 105? Or is that redundant if you are going the 601 and 105 route? Thanks.



I was hoping to get the benefit of cleaning/longevity added from the AIO, but seems that 601 may be doing the same?
 
it came out real nice...buffed off like a champ...funny thing though...the truck had some very slight marring on the hood...very minute but could see in the sun....I gave the hood a second coat and roof...I always do 2 on top surfaces to ensure complete coverage..and after buffing the second coat off...you could not see the marring...it was very slight to begin with..but was gone after coat 2..so I believe it does fill to a point...



We will wash it this week end after being on a construction site the next couple days and do a AW on it..and give it coat 2 next week...



Al[/QUOTE]

Are you saying, that 2 coats of #111, you could not see the marring?
 
ashsarna said:
Anyone tried adding Klasse AIO as a base befor 105? Or is that redundant if you are going the 601 and 105 route? Thanks.



I was hoping to get the benefit of cleaning/longevity added from the AIO, but seems that 601 may be doing the same?
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AIO or Jeff's prime products would be a fine base...I have a big jug of the pre VOC AIO and I am going to do the Honda with it...I am in the middle of ordering some Jeff's products also...I want the prime collection to play around with to see what results you get...



Another good base I would think that would work good is Meg's Color-X...



The 601 is basicaly a cleaner /catylst...it tells you on the bottle it will loosen old wax...but any new stuff applied I beleive it will not touch...it is not as strong as most think...it will just clean any Dying wax or Sealant on it last leg...or fallout or left over oils from a polish ..it has a catylst to ensure the first coat of sealant bonds to a clean surface and also reacts with the sealant to create a hard coat and add some x-tra gloss...





for those interested in the tire dressing..it is good stuff....253...water just rolls off..and it lasts....very durable....not glossy unless you do a few coats..more natural looking...



lether cleaners and conditioners are top notch...



also the Duragloss UD (Vinyl & Leather Dressing) is the best trim dressing I have used..does not streak..wash off...run...but smells like a hooker..a perfume type smell but goes away fast...does nice on the dash also....not a real shiny product...dries fast also..buffs to a nice natural finish...



AL
 
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