well dacp works for me most of the time but from time to time i get cars that have a little harder clear on them and i really got to use a lot of pressure and a lot of pressure and a lot of passes so i really want something thats stronger and requires less work. i was thinking either getting a yellow lake county cutting pad (im using a sonus orange) and continue using dacp or step up to a 1z polish or perhaps 1z ultra polish. the thing is that i do mostly cars that are less than 3 years old so i dont want to use anything super strong. what would you reccomend me using?
whats a product that is a touch stronger than dacp?
- Thread starter andrew300
- Start date
imported_memnuts
New member
For a touch more bite than DACP is Meg's Fine Cut. Really easy product to use, especially on hard clears. Very PC compatible also.
Another alternative online is Menzerna IP with a moistened polishing pad.
Another alternative online is Menzerna IP with a moistened polishing pad.
LouisanaJeeper
New member
3M fine cut
safe to use on new cars
safe to use on new cars
if you have a car whether or not it is new and have to go stronger than DACP I would try something like PB's SSR3. The abrasives in it break down very quickly, and it is possible to go to a ready for LSP from that polish, that will eliminate the use of another polish. Just my opinion.
Eliot Ness
Active member
Iâ€â„¢ll agree with the 3M line. Iâ€â„¢ve had the 3M PI III RC and MG (machine glaze) for a while and really like how they perform (easy to use and very good results with no fillers). DACP and #80 work well for me also, but if I had to choose only two polishes itâ€â„¢d be the 3M (RC and MG).
Iâ€â„¢d use an orange pad first before going to a yellow if you switch to a more aggressive polish.
Iâ€â„¢d use an orange pad first before going to a yellow if you switch to a more aggressive polish.
I have not used DACP, but from reading other threads it seems that people still debate whether SSR2.5 is stronger than DACP and vice-versa. I have used SSR2.5 with a yellow cut pad on several cars with great success. Im probably gonna try out SSR3 this summer on some cars that are pretty beat up.
I have used Menzerna IP with a orange cut pad via PC and i know from MY expierence SSR2.5 is more aggressive than IP, plus the SSR2.5 is more user friendly!
I have used Menzerna IP with a orange cut pad via PC and i know from MY expierence SSR2.5 is more aggressive than IP, plus the SSR2.5 is more user friendly!
imported_memnuts
New member
stevet said:
I have used it with a rotary but I have also had success using it with a PC, pressure variation, polishing pad and working product into surface. I have also used FC by hand with success for small quick repairs. I believe FC is quite similiar to IP where as a rotary will quicken the process and is the "recommended" method. Nevertheless, a PC will work wonders with patiences and practice. :xyxthumbs
imported_pugoman
New member
No mention of 1Z UPP - very user friendly product, breaks down quickly.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Look up the 'abrasive list'
http://autopia.org/forums/showthrea...page=24&highlight=abrasive scale&pagenumber=2
http://autopia.org/forums/showthrea...page=24&highlight=abrasive scale&pagenumber=2
imported_fireberd350
New member
I also agree on the 3M PI-III RC...I've had swirls on my black truck that I just could not get out, I tried 1ZPP, SSR2.5, and fillers such as VM and NXT with mediocre results. I tried the 3M this weekend and it kicked my paints a$$! Highly recommended. Although I hear the newer product line is the same but with less dust, I believe it is the 3M PI-II line of products....I'm sure somewhere can verify that.
EdLancer
New member
Yup, I agree 3M's 05933 PIII RC is the tougest compound in my arsenal I use, it removes swirlies faster than Meg's DACP and I like the thicker viscosity as compared to Meg's #83.
pugoman said:
I have used 1ZUPP and 1ZPP, have you had any trouble with removal?? I have used both products with good results but it seems difficult to remove with all the oils it has. When i started using Poorboys, i basically stopped using the 1Z line. Not saying that 1Z is bad or anything, but from my expierence with Poorboys, PB's seems easier to use and the results are better in my opinion. :nixweiss
imported_pugoman
New member
I find all the 1Z line real easy to remove - can't understand why you'd of had difficulties with removal... :nixweiss
imported_memnuts
New member
stevet said:
Though I respect Mike P's thoughts on detailing very much :xyxthumbs, I still rely on my personal experiences with a product. Long before I discovered the value of a PC and this website with only a rotary to use, many times I just removed blemishes by hand using FC and something 3M HC. Both are rotary products that I had on hand. My hand protocol worked great even though it was work intensive. Hand application can be tedious works and time consuming.
PC is just a hand-saver and elbow-grease eliminator. So if hand application works from my experience, my direct conclusion is the a mechanical hand (PC) will/has produced similiar results.
