Hypothetical on Durability

R

RogueM3

New member
Sealants last obviously longer than waxes...and have the ability to be covered by a wax. Does this mean that a combination of sealant topped with a wax will give you the durability of a wax until is wears out (figure upwards of 6 weeks) and then the durability of the sealant which is exposed only after the wax wears away?



The reason I ask is because I have plans to detail my brothers m3 which he tends not to wash unless I am there to do it with him/encourage him to do it. Having said this, he wont notice the added effects of a caranuba over a sealent, so I would only apply both if it were going to extend the overall durability.



Thanks in advance.
 
If the wax does not effect the sealant composition and functionality(disrupt crosslinking and bonding to the finish) and the wax is able to adhere to the sealant as well as it does a glaze or bare paint, the durability should be additive of both protectants.



With that stated, one would be hard pressed to find a wax that meets all these criteria. Most wax are suspended in a solvent carrier which may be harmful to the health :) of the sealant's intregrity. JMHO
 
blkZ28Conv said:
If the wax does not effect the sealant composition and functionality(disrupt crosslinking and bonding to the finish) and the wax is able to adhere to the sealant as well as it does a glaze or bare paint, the durability should be additive of both protectants. IMHO
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Then I guess the question is:

Is my caranuba (either Nattys Blue or P21S) going to affect my sealant composition (UPP)? Is there anyway to really know?



Thanks for the response.
 
Waxes have high solvent content, 45% on average and sealants have a much lower solvent content, but what always concerned me was is the waxes high solvent cleaning off some of the sealant? I think if durabilty is the concern stick with layering the sealant, that would be my opinion on that.

You can always do a test and put multiple coats of UPP on one side of your car, and UPP/Natty's on the other.
 
Burlyq said:
Waxes have high solvent content, 45% on average and sealants have a much lower solvent content, but what always concerned me was is the waxes high solvent cleaning off some of the sealant? I think if durabilty is the concern stick with layering the sealant, that would be my opinion on that.

You can always do a test and put multiple coats of UPP on one side of your car, and UPP/Natty's on the other.
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In general would layering give you twice the durability? (ie using 2 layers of sealant would double its durability as the top coat would be worn away first and then the second coat..)
 
In the real world if the sealant has sufficient time to fully cure and multiply coats are well established, the topping with a carnuaba will most likely not disrupt the sealant entirely and be additive to the protection of the remaining intacted sealant and carnuaba.



Since durability is such a difficult item to measure precisely because of the many variables involved (location, climate conditions, storage (garaged or not), paint prep prior to application, etc), an answer to your question thru testing will be difficult to generalize.
 
I wasn't doing anything *close* to controlled tests, but using #16 on well cured KSG appeared to offer the additive benefits that blkZ28Conv suggested. After the #16 was dead it still behaved like a SGed surface. But generally I'd rather just have another layer of sealant unless you're topping with something unusually durable like Collinite (and then I'd use a paste, not IW).



Actually, I always topped friends/family cars with Collinite just because the beading makes it pretty self-cleaning and people are always wowed by those beads. Plus, they can *see* when it's time to redo the wax, they miss the beading even if they're not detail fanatics.
 
Understand everything so far about effects, or compatibility problems, that waxes might have on sealants, etc...



Question - Than if you do want to do sealants & wax, would it be better to stick to the same family of products, such as EX & Nattys or Nattys-Blue in order to attain a higher level of compatibility (& durability)?
 
docker said:
Question - Than if you do want to do sealants & wax, would it be better to stick to the same family of products, such as EX & Nattys or Nattys-Blue in order to attain a higher level of compatibility (& durability)?
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That makes the assumption that the same family of products have similar genetics to induce a better compatibility...I am not so sure that my EX-P is even close to my Nattys Blue... :think:
 
Maybe with Meguiars products because the claim that all there products are compatable, that may not be the case with all manufacturers
 
Yeah, the Meg's family approach makes it easy to assume everything is compatible. Otherwise, "straight" waxes are almost always safe over anything, especially paste versions. For other combos, I'd just ask here. Somebody has probably tried just about any combo you can think of so.
 
RogueM3 said:
In general would layering give you twice the durability? (ie using 2 layers of sealant would double its durability as the top coat would be worn away first and then the second coat..)
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Lol good question, everytime I try to test this I drop the ball. I am in the middle of trying this again with two coats of 2180 cured on half of my moms car and one coat on the other half, but I might of waited to long to see the results. I have to wash the thing and see if one side is doing better or not, maybe this weekend.
 
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