Yes, I know that you should start with the least aggressive polish and use more aggressive polish if those scratches are not coming out, but my question is about when you DO have to use those aggressive polishes/compounds such as SFX-1. Why is it that after using aggressive polishes you have to work your way back to the least aggresive polishes? I say this because I really don't like spending over 10 hours on customer cars using the less abrasive polishes over my more aggressive polishes, when I don't seem to notice much of a difference in the paint. I am having a difficult time trying to explain what I am questioning, so bear with me, please. See, when looking at the Sonus line of polishes, SFX-1, the compound, is not supposed to remove swirls. But, SFX-2, IS supposed to remove swirls. How can a less-abrasive polish take out swirls? Sorry for my confusion.
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What is the theory behind going from most aggresive to least aggresive polish?
- Thread starter golfdude
- Start date
Deep_Freeze
New member
Well, people do a less aggressive polish after a more aggressive polish to remove any marring done by the more aggressive polish in its process of trying to remove swirls. So if you use your most aggressive polish, and you have marring and swirls from it, then you will need a light polish to get those out.
Now, I have read this process alot of times from this site. In my own practice, I very rarely use 2 polishes. You are talking Sonus, but I use DACP and SFP alot. I have used DACP on my car, and have never followed it up with a lighter polish (SFP for instance).
To me, it depends on if you have any marring that is significant in your opinion. If you do have marring, use the lighter polish, if you don't, skip it.
Your amount of swirls and marring from the most aggressive polish will depend on your individual PC settings, pads used, amount of time on each panel, and pressure on the PC. This is different for everyone, so you have to do what is best in your own particular situation and opinion.
Now, I have read this process alot of times from this site. In my own practice, I very rarely use 2 polishes. You are talking Sonus, but I use DACP and SFP alot. I have used DACP on my car, and have never followed it up with a lighter polish (SFP for instance).
To me, it depends on if you have any marring that is significant in your opinion. If you do have marring, use the lighter polish, if you don't, skip it.
Your amount of swirls and marring from the most aggressive polish will depend on your individual PC settings, pads used, amount of time on each panel, and pressure on the PC. This is different for everyone, so you have to do what is best in your own particular situation and opinion.
In my opion most over the counter polishes ans componds are not great. If you use a industrial grade polish from a reputable rep your results will be as you expect. It sounds like you do this for a living so time is important. First (again in my opion) lose the PC. Learn to use a cicular. You are trying to take out scratches and swirls and do it in a reasonable time frame. The PC (while good in the right applications) is to slow. And if somebody says that a cicular is to dangerous it's because they don't know hoe to oporate one. In my shop there are 2 basic polishes. A 2 step and a 1 step. Both are done with a wool pad. We rarely use foam pads. Anyways, On a light colour car we use our chemical and a wool pad. The chemical we use also has a wax built in (like a 2 step) We use the chemical (If you want to know which polish PM me) a wool pad and the scratches and swirls are gone. Just buff off the residue and done. A dark colour car we will take outside and really inspect it after a 1 step. IF it needs it we will go over it with a foam pad and a lighter polish to brighten he paint up a bit. Once again this is a polish and wax. One step.
To answer some of your questions the reason that a less aggressive polsih removes swirls is that it contains fillers. It fills them in rather than fix them. If it is a customer who comes in once a year if they don't wax their car before they see you again those scratches or swirls will be back. Also if you use a product that mars the finish in it's first step the lighter polish should clean those up. If you product is marring enough it's time to swith products.
Clinnton
To answer some of your questions the reason that a less aggressive polsih removes swirls is that it contains fillers. It fills them in rather than fix them. If it is a customer who comes in once a year if they don't wax their car before they see you again those scratches or swirls will be back. Also if you use a product that mars the finish in it's first step the lighter polish should clean those up. If you product is marring enough it's time to swith products.
Clinnton
xfire said:........I really don't like spending over 10 hours on customer cars using the less abrasive polishes over my more aggressive polishes, when I don't seem to notice much of a difference in the paint..........
I think the reason you're not seeing a difference is
because you are looking at your work with more
scrutiny.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
xfire said:See, when looking at the Sonus line of polishes, SFX-1, the compound, is not supposed to remove swirls. But, SFX-2, IS supposed to remove swirls. How can a less-abrasive polish take out swirls?
From the Autopia store: " Sonus SFX-1 is a fast-action cutting and paintwork restoration polish. Use SFX-1 to cut and buff 1200 grit sanding marks, heavy swirl marks, surface scratches, orange peel and severe oxidation." (emphasis mine)
The coarser compounds will leave behind some hazing (light swirl marks) that will need to be removed by a finer compound. Several of the fairly aggressive polishes (Meg's DACP, for instance) will finish well enough to not require a finer polish, particularly on lighter colors. There are, however, tons of variables with this.
I don't follow that practice. I use one polish (HI-Temp Heavy Cut) and use a more aggressive pad as the situation dictates.
But that polish is marketed so as to remove the need for a follow up with another product.
I do however follow the start with the least aggressive pad rule though.
however even with this polish if I use a wool or medium-heavy cut pad there will be hazing.
But then I can use the least aggressive pad I started with and go over the area/panel again with the same polish.
The theory mentioned is sound though
But that polish is marketed so as to remove the need for a follow up with another product.
I do however follow the start with the least aggressive pad rule though.
however even with this polish if I use a wool or medium-heavy cut pad there will be hazing.
But then I can use the least aggressive pad I started with and go over the area/panel again with the same polish.
The theory mentioned is sound though
wannafbody
wannafbody
some of the newer polishes have variable cutting power based on the pad used. Mothers PowerPolish and Optimum polish are 2 such products and they break down fine enough not to need a follow up product. If they don't remove your swirls then use the more aggressive Sonus.
For me it's more of a situation brought on by using a d/a (the PC) instead of a rotary; a way to work around the inherent limitations of the machine. You can use a rotary, #84, and a cutting pad, and get smooth as glass results; with the d/a, I use "intermediate steps" to get the same results, moving from more aggressive to less aggressive polishes. Each step removes the minor imperfections left by the lower power of the PC.
Tom
Tom
foxtrapper
New member
It's just like sanding wood. You go from coarse to fine paper to eliminate the scratches. How many steps you jump and just how coarse you start with vary, and dictate the results.
In sandpaper, you can go from a 600 grit to a 1000 grit. Some would use the 800 grit in between. You don't have to, but there will be times you may want to. Otherwise, jump as far as you can. If you jump to far, you'll spend a lot of time working things out with a fine sandpaper when it could be much better handled with a coarser paper.
Auto polish follows the basic rule.
Add to that the nature of many coarse polishes to break down rapidly into a finer polish, and you really can jump to finer grades quite rapidly.
In sandpaper, you can go from a 600 grit to a 1000 grit. Some would use the 800 grit in between. You don't have to, but there will be times you may want to. Otherwise, jump as far as you can. If you jump to far, you'll spend a lot of time working things out with a fine sandpaper when it could be much better handled with a coarser paper.
Auto polish follows the basic rule.
Add to that the nature of many coarse polishes to break down rapidly into a finer polish, and you really can jump to finer grades quite rapidly.
imported_themightytimmah
New member
Using 3 polishes, you can fix pretty much anything, via rotary.
Really bad:
Powergloss by wool, OCP via polishing
Bad
Powergloss via orange foam, PO85 via polishing
Decent
OCP via polishing pad
Good
PO85RD via polishing pad.
At worst, it takes me 4 hours on a trashed black car. Oftentimes, on 2003 and up cars, I get done in 45 minutes or less. Via PC, you can easily spend 10 and get a mediocre result. I spent 4 hours on my door with a PC once, and didn't get the results I get in half an hour with a rotary.
Really bad:
Powergloss by wool, OCP via polishing
Bad
Powergloss via orange foam, PO85 via polishing
Decent
OCP via polishing pad
Good
PO85RD via polishing pad.
At worst, it takes me 4 hours on a trashed black car. Oftentimes, on 2003 and up cars, I get done in 45 minutes or less. Via PC, you can easily spend 10 and get a mediocre result. I spent 4 hours on my door with a PC once, and didn't get the results I get in half an hour with a rotary.
foxtrapper said:It's just like sanding wood. You go from coarse to fine paper to eliminate the scratches. How many steps you jump and just how coarse you start with vary, and dictate the results.
:xyxthumbs I was just going to say the same thing.