Today is the day I will do my hood in the full Duragloss lineup

AL-53

AL-53

Duragloss User
Today I will strip off my winter coat on the Truck's hood and use the Duragloss products to see what they look like on my red paint...



Useing the swirl mark remover first to clean the paint and see how it works..not really needed but want to try it.



Then I will apply the bonding agent.



Then apply the clearcoat polish #111 over the bonding agent



Then apply the paste wax #104..then some AW



I was told by DuraGloss I can do the whole process with out a bonding issue as they all contain products that work with each other without issues...





This is just an experiment to see what the full line looks like on my truck...I have Klasse twins now and collinite with AW on it now..



The weather looks iffy so that is why I will just do the hood..



will post pics after done....



Thanks

Al
 
I finished doing the hood...it is very overcast out now...it came out as expected..very nice ..to me anyways...I took the picturs as best as I could..was very overcast out and sky was showing alot of white on pictures...



Hope you get the idea of what it looks like...



DSC00514.jpg






100_1903.jpg






when and if sun comes out will try to get better pictures...I will be doing whole truck this week ..weather permitting ..same as I did the hood..looks better in person..trust me..



Al



p.s. I did not use the pastewax..it looked seperated to me ..Duragloss is sending me a new one out today...did everything else in previous post...except did #111x2..yes I did the AW also
 
AL----I take it you did not use the #105 TPP on this hood???

Just the AW on top of the #111 on bonding agent?



How did the agent and #111 apply/remove? Ddi you use PC? What was the process??



Thanks
 
apply the bonding agent and let haze-DO NOT REMOVE. then apply the 105 or 111 on top of the PBA-it will spread easily. Allow to dry and wipe off.
 
no it just the bonding agent and the 111..I did it by hand..I like to apply sealants by hand..have more control of applying and it is easy to apply the duragloss....as to removing..it was a breeze..no effort at all...just do a wipe down and then again to ensure all is off.



I used AW the next day to do a wipe down...I used 3M machine glaze to polish before I did the duragloss... to clean off last winters sealant coat...



it does not get any easier than this...no problems going on or off....just let it haze a while for both products...let the bonding agent haze before applying the sealant over the bonding agent.....let the sealant haze before removal...for me it was 15 minute wait...was cool out..70..may haze faster in warmer weather...



The AW is just a spray ..rub in ..wipe down process...easier than breathing..lol



for best results..do a good prep..clay. ..polish ..wash ...dry..apply...







Al
 
wannafbody said:
apply the bonding agent and let haze-DO NOT REMOVE. then apply the 105 or 111 on top of the PBA-it will spread easily. Allow to dry and wipe off.
Click to expand...
I am assuming all by-hand? What about applying with a PC and if so, what pad?
 
AL-53 said:
no it just the bonding agent and the 111..I did it by hand..I like to apply sealants by hand..have more control of applying and it is easy to apply the duragloss....as to removing..it was a breeze..no effort at all...just do a wipe down and then again to ensure all is off.



I used AW the next day to do a wipe down...I used 3M machine glaze to polish before I did the duragloss... to clean off last winters sealant coat...



it does not get any easier than this...no problems going on or off....just let it haze a while for both products...let the bonding agent haze before applying the sealant over the bonding agent.....let the sealant haze before removal...for me it was 15 minute wait...was cool out..70..may haze faster in warmer weather...



The AW is just a spray ..rub in ..wipe down process...easier than breathing..lol



for best results..do a good prep..clay. ..polish ..wash ...dry..apply...







Al
Click to expand...



Thanks, AL. Can the #111 be replaced by the new #105? I'm not quite sure where the 105 fits into the lineup.
 
yes..the 105 is their newest product...I was told by Jerry..the owner and chemist..that 105 is better ..better shine and durability...have not tried it yet..I will soon...but it is fortified with acrylics and polymers..and a light cleaner to ensure no surface grim..the cleaner will not compromise any product ..just decayed wax or sealant ..you can layer it also with out harm to under laying new product you have applied...the cleaner is basicaly for any grime the shampoo could not remove...



Al
 
AL-53 said:
yes..the 105 is their newest product...I was told by Jerry..the owner and chemist..that 105 is better ..better shine and durability...have not tried it yet..I will soon...but it is fortified with acrylics and polymers..and a light cleaner to ensure no surface grim..the cleaner will not compromise any product ..just decayed wax or sealant ..you can layer it also with out harm to under laying new product you have applied...the cleaner is basicaly for any grime the shampoo could not remove...



Al
Click to expand...
So let me get this straight, if one was gonna do a COMPLETE DuraGloss job ... http://www.duragloss.com/catalog.asp?catid=92 ... After Clay --> PBA 601 --> TPP 105 --> AW 951 / FC&S 921 for maintainance! ... http://www.duragloss.com/catalog.asp?catid=89 & RR 751 for the Glass to see the Depth of Shine from the Inside! :heelclick Guru kicking zainoAss
 
Well to do a paint protection system...I would just use the #601..#105 ...for the sealant phase of it....to upkeep it I would use AW 951 after a few washes or when you want to I guess..and the FC&S 921 for a QD when needed ..bird bombs..dust...fingerprints..whatever..



as far as glass and stuff goes...what ever works for you...



as said before I won the whole line in a auction...so I use the products...



Do I think they are good..yes..tops for the money..better than a lot of the boutique stuff I bought from hype and raves...



Would I buy again..yes...



Do they work as described...yes..and better..





with the PBA and the #111 x3 I can go 6 months no problem...with using AW 3-4 times in that time period...I did it this past winter..and it is still on the Honda from NOV..and still looks good and beads and shines....



I have not tried the #105 yet...but will soon...I will be doing the Honda and the truck with the PBA and the 105 for the winter....



I can not compare it to Zaino as I have never tried it...and probably won't..I can get close to the zaino protection ..maybe not the looks ..for less money..and find it locally ..or call and get what I need for 4.95 shipping ...and the ease of use is great....





Al
 
I was feeling pretty good today so I washed and clayed my parents van and applied the 601 and 111 sealant. It looked darn good. The van is pewter mettallic. The 111 seems to be very optically clear and wet looking. I topped a couple panels with AW and the appearance picked up a slight amount of gloss. The 111 sections were slick but the AW topped sections were even more slick. Its kind of funny I tried the 111 last year on my NBM TA and didn't really care for it but on pewter it looks very nice.
 
PINITI-FX said:
Just a thought ... Could it be that the 601 chemically does something to enhance the 111 or 105 sealant simarally like zfx does to z2pro? http://www.duragloss.com/product.asp?pid=275
Click to expand...





Yes, I believe so. I used the 111 on our white pickup last fall without the 601. I used the 601 on one small section. With white it was difficult to tell if the 601 improved gloss. What is interesting is that both 601 and ZFX contain aliphatic hydrocarbons-whatever that means(I'm not claiming that those aliphatic hydrocarbons are exactly the same tho).
 
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