Sonus orange pad

R

rkf76

New member
I have a gripe about this pad. It came with my PC package from TOTL. I attempted to use it today for the first time and this is what happened. First thing I notice is that unlike the Lake County pads, there is no reinforcement on the back of the pad, also, the velcro is slightly smaller than the 6" velcro pad holder supplied. I tried it anyway. After a while I began noticing tiny pieces of pad, like the size of crumbs. Upon inspection of the pad, I noticed the exposed velcro on the backing plate was taking a nice groove out of the back of the pad. So then I go grab the 4" backing plate that came w/the package thinking it'll fit, nope. It was too small. I try it anyway. After a while I start noticing black "crumbs" while i'm polishing. Upon inspection, the backing plate had worn through the velcro on the pad(about 2" long). I remove the pad and find that the backing plate had begun to melt. Good thing I had the trusty Lake County cutting pad on deck and ready to go.



The job the pad did was fine, but the lack of reinforcement bothers me, as does the weird size of the velcro they put on the back of it.
 
Hmm, could be wrong, I guess. anyone care to post a pic of the front and back of a sonus orange pad?
 
The Sonus orange pad has a flat foam face, and an indented velcro circle.



The LC orange has a concave foam face, and has a raised velcro backing.



Many, including myself, have had problems with the raised velcro cutting into the foam. If your backing plate is bigger than the vecro this also will cut the foam and create the problem your facing.



Here's a pic of the repairs I made on the damaged velcro backing, and reinforcing of the other pads before they went the same way. This is the troublesome LC orange VC pads. They have subsequently improved them.



17477bpglueing.jpg
 
Sonus products are sold exclusively through Autopia, and the only PC package that I see available from TOTL includes LC pads.



The problem you are experiencing was a very big problem in the past due to the old design, like you can see in the pics provided by Alfisti. AFAIK, LC has revised their pads and the velcro backing now goes all the way to the edge. The problem is most apparent on the orange pads because they are the stiffest, and are usually the ones people apply them most pressure to, thus grinding the backing plate into the pad which causes premature wear.



I suggest you call TOTL to see if you maybe got an old batch of pads, and if so, see if they can swap them out for a newer revised set. This is all assuming they are actually LC pads and not some other brand.



Regardless, using less pressure can reduce, if not prevent, this from happening at all.



Here's a picture I just took of an old style LC pad, current (updated) style LC pad, and the current Sonus pad. At the time I had problems with my LC pad, the only grade they were revising was the white pad, so my orange and black pads still have the old velcro backing on them. I am assuming they have now revised all of the pads, but am not sure.



Sonus_vs_LC_pads.jpg
 
Alfisti said:
Here's a pic of the repairs I made on the damaged velcro backing, and reinforcing of the other pads before they went the same way. This is the troublesome LC orange VC pads. They have subsequently improved them.
Click to expand...



Alfisti, can you describe your repair technique? Or link to another thread where you described it?
 
Mike, I simply used a thick contact cement to strengthen the edge of the velcro/foam border.



Initially I used glue from a can, but that proved too messy when transfering to the pad...the glue would 'string' everywhere. Then I bought a large tube of the stuff, which worked out well.



I applied to the area shown in the photo. I kept it about 5mm's from the foam outer edge to prevent the hardened glue from accidently touching the paint when spinning and marring it. I wanted the outer egde to remain soft. Any dried glue 'string' I shaved off with a sharp blade.



I also ensured the glue 'overlapped' into the velcro pile...but only just....again about 5mm. This gave the glue something to grab onto when vibrating and tortured whilst in use. Any more than 5mm and the outer edge of my Sonus flexible b/p would overlap onto the glue, which I've tried to avoid.



I allowed the first layer of glue to dry overnight, then did a second, allowed to dry overnight, then did a third. I wanted to build it up so that when fully cured the glue will be a thick layer of rubber cement that would not fold and give under the pressure of PC/vibration/downforce. Now that its hardened, the glue is about 3mm (1/8th inch) thick, which is very important...the thicker, the better. Remember, the glue is not just to bind the surfaces together but also to brace/stiffen the whole back of the foam so that it doesn't flex, rather, it moves as one.



I then allowed the whole thing to cure for about a fortnight before using it. The longer the better, as it seems to continue to cure and harden for about a month.



I've had no issues with it since, and the contact cement has not broken down. In fact, its made the pad better to use as its increased the pads lateral rigidity and seems to transfer the PC's lateral forces more efficiently. :up
 
Thanks for the tip; I have two orange pads that are cut almost all the way through (so it may actually be too late). I'll give it a try!!
 
Well thanks for the help and clarification guys, I infact have the old LC orange pad. All of my other pads are LC as well but neither of them look like the orange one does. And consequently, I like the other pads due to their design seeing as how they have a recessed area that is all velcro, with the area underneath the velcro and around the edge of the recess being a rubbery material. I have contacted TOTL to see what, if anything, they can/will do about this. I'll keep you posted.
 
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