Meguairs #20

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imported_chewy

New member
I am planning on using Meguiars #20 on a 2002 Passat (four months old). I have clayed the car and was wondering if I need to use anything before the #20. The paint in great shape and I know that #20 has a mild cleaner in it, but was wondering if anything before it would be worthwhile.



Thanks,

chewy
 
#20 does not cover up defects like a carnauba with glaze will, so I think that it would be beneficial to do a round of SMR before you apply the #20. Then you're all set for 6 months. You didn't say what colour the car is. If it's silver, you can probably skip the SMR because silver hides swirls well. But if it's dark -- black, blue, green, then the SMR would a good idea.
 
I was under the impression that #20 had some cleaning properties, so there wouldn't be any point of applying a glaze before #20 application?
 
If #20 has any cleaning properties then they are pretty weak. I did half a hood with AIO and the other half with #20 and I could definatly see the difference. The hood had some oxidation on it and I could tell that the #20 side didn't get it nearly as well. I wish I had taken a picture of it, but that was pre-digicamera days for me.



If you paint is in rough shape then I would have to second the idea that you should hit it with some kind of paint cleaner. AIO, SMR, #9, PI-II, whatever it requires. Your car will look a lot better afterwards if you do that.
 
I don’t think #20 (Polymer Sealant) will remove #7 (Show Car Glaze) since you are supposed to be able to follow #7 with any wax. Per Meguiar’s 5 step process, #7 is in step 3 (polishing) and #20 is in step 4 (protecting). This would also mean that if #20 has any cleaning properties at all, they would be minimal at best. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the most, .1 or maybe .25 for cleaning.
 
I would be more concerned with #20 bonding properly after #7 than whether it cleans it off.



I concur with Jngrbrdman on its cleaner abilities. You can get minor paint scuffs and the like with #20, but nothing more. If there is any oxidation or swirls, forget it. #20 won't touch those.
 
I see no probelm with applying the #20 and then applying the #7 and a carnuba topper (like #26). I used to top #20 with #26 all the time; the carnuba topper really added depth to the finish.
 
Dude said:
I see no probelm with applying the #20 and then applying the #7 and a carnuba topper (like #26). I used to top #20 with #26 all the time; the carnuba topper really added depth to the finish.
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The #7 will probably remove the #20. Besides, you'd be going from Meguiar's Step 4, back to Step 3, then to Step 4 again.... not that that necessarily means anything. ;)
 
I should have mentioned that the Passat is a metalic silver, so it has few, if any swirls. I think the driving point in the application should be the proper "bond" of #20 to the paint. Is that not a critical conponent of polymers--nothing between it and the paint?? Thanks for all the comments!:xyxthumbs
 
I don't think #20 "bonds" in the traditional sense of the major polymers. It is loaded with other waxes and silicones including the polymers. Polymers, in general, won't bond over or with waxes and silicones. Also, Meguiar's states that #20 contains mild cleaners in the formula as well. If you applied #7 or whatever else under it, the #20 would likley remove it anyhow. I agree that the cleaners are rather mild, and they remind me of Liquid Glass actually. They are very light at best, but there nonetheless.
 
4DSC said:
The #7 will probably remove the #20. Besides, you'd be going from Meguiar's Step 4, back to Step 3, then to Step 4 again.... not that that necessarily means anything. ;)
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No, no- I meant FIRST apply the #20, and THEN apply the #7 and #26 over it. I think this would work fine. Actually, doesn't #7 have cleaners in it, too? He should probably go with #3, which contains no cleaners.
 
Dude said:
No, no- I meant FIRST apply the #20, and THEN apply the #7 and #26 over it. I think this would work fine. Actually, doesn't #7 have cleaners in it, too? He should probably go with #3, which contains no cleaners.
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I know, I know. I had this kind of idea once too. It's just that I have this notion that polymer sealants and glazes don't mix under or over each other. #7/#3 and other glazes don't necessarily have cleaners, but it's been said (and demonstrated) in the past that glazes will strip off Klasse when applied over them. It does this only because the solvents used in the glaze are incompatible. I extend this rationale to pretty much ALL polymer sealants, even though it hasn't been explicitly tested, because I think that all of the polymer products respond identically to solvents that dissolve them (like alcohol).



No, I'm not 100% sure, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :D
 
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