FPII was tough to remove today

It's a high water formula, i don't think the humidity will hurt it, I would say something else is going on. I would say maybe you used too much or not worked it long enough, but I know you know what your doing so maybe it's a quality thing like a bad batch or something. Was the paint hot?
 
I am failry familiar with the product via rotary and PC. I can say with a high degree of certainty that FPII does NOT like humidity. I have had problems with it this summer--our humidity is similar to what you guys deal with in New Orleans. Even using two smaller-than-pea-sized drops on a pad, working it until it turns almost clear, it will become difficult to remove in spots.
 
I have found that FPII gets a little tricky via rotary in the heat of the summer (I'm not sure if it is the heat or humidity...or combination) - I find that I have to change out pads a couple times during the process. The only time I have a hard time removing the product is when it starts to cake up on the paint (though I've never experienced this issue via PC), requiring you to wipe off immediately.
 
If you can get your hands on some RMG, mix a little in with the polish - it dramatically helps product removal, among other things.
 
I can't, won't, and don't use FPII because of humidity. It feels like New Orleans about 200 days of the year here in Memphis and I suffer using FPII.
 
membim said:
I can't, won't, and don't use FPII because of humidity. It feels like New Orleans about 200 days of the year here in Memphis and I suffer using FPII.



Glad that I am not the only one. :D My problem is that IMO, FPII has no equal. SSR1 doesn't finish down as well, nor does OP, M80, M82 just isn't user friendly IMO, HT LC is close, but no cigar. What do you use instead? I use FPII after rotary work. Every other final polish that I have tried degrades the finish that rotary work leaves behind. :(
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Glad that I am not the only one. :D My problem is that IMO, FPII has no equal. SSR1 doesn't finish down as well, nor does OP, M80, M82 just isn't user friendly IMO, HT LC is close, but no cigar. What do you use instead? I use FPII after rotary work. Every other final polish that I have tried degrades the finish that rotary work leaves behind. :(



I still plan to use FPII. I'll just use more aggresive methods of removing it.



After inital buffing, I'll use damp terry cloths and/or cheap QD's, e.g Eagle One.
 
This is likely a situation to use a "damp" MF towel to remove the residue per CMA's instructions. I know that in my dry heat that it isn't a problem to remove.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Glad that I am not the only one. :D My problem is that IMO, FPII has no equal. SSR1 doesn't finish down as well, nor does OP, M80, M82 just isn't user friendly IMO, HT LC is close, but no cigar. What do you use instead? I use FPII after rotary work. Every other final polish that I have tried degrades the finish that rotary work leaves behind. :(



Man ebpcivicsi...I like your thinking and your posts. You nailed it right on the head...FPII has no equal. (btw, the blackfire SRC polish finishes down even better than fPII via PC (though you'll only see the difference on black)).
 
RAG said:
Man ebpcivicsi...I like your thinking and your posts. You nailed it right on the head...FPII has no equal. (btw, the blackfire SRC polish finishes down even better than fPII via PC (though you'll only see the difference on black)).



Wonder why Clearkote doesn't offer a comparable product.
 
RAG said:
Man ebpcivicsi...I like your thinking and your posts. You nailed it right on the head...FPII has no equal. (btw, the blackfire SRC polish finishes down even better than fPII via PC (though you'll only see the difference on black)).



What about Menzerna's P085RD?
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Glad that I am not the only one. :D My problem is that IMO, FPII has no equal. SSR1 doesn't finish down as well, nor does OP, M80, M82 just isn't user friendly IMO, HT LC is close, but no cigar. What do you use instead? I use FPII after rotary work. Every other final polish that I have tried degrades the finish that rotary work leaves behind. :(



I use SSR1 or Vanilla Moose as my final polish.



BTW, I saw your car again the other day. It's amazing how autopians can tell who else is an autopian!!!!!
 
NHBFAN said:
I still plan to use FPII. I'll just use more aggresive methods of removing it.



After inital buffing, I'll use damp terry cloths and/or cheap QD's, e.g Eagle One.



When detailing a jet black BMW, you can't use agressive methods of removing polish residue. It will mar the finish.
 
membim said:
When detailing a jet black BMW, you can't use agressive methods of removing polish residue. It will mar the finish.





Man, you aren't kidding. Sometimes even the softest MF will mar the paint upon removal. I learned that this weekend. Anyone who has a black BMW as a DD must be nuts!! :D It's unbelievable how soft the paint is.



BTW, if it was the civic in my avatar, it is gone. You probably saw a copycat. :D I have seen the car and if you get close, in full sun--you'll know that is ownded by a nonautopian. ;)
 
As far as I understand from reading this thread, there are problems associated with using FPII in high humidity/heat.



I have been hesitant in purchasing the PO106FF and I understand how it works miracles. Is it as hard as FPII in application/removal, and if you add RMG will it solve the high heat/humidity problem? I have been waiting to detail my black accord, and would love to use it if possible.
 
tustah said:
As far as I understand from reading this thread, there are problems associated with using FPII in high humidity/heat.



I have been hesitant in purchasing the PO106FF and I understand how it works miracles. Is it as hard as FPII in application/removal, and if you add RMG will it solve the high heat/humidity problem? I have been waiting to detail my black accord, and would love to use it if possible.



Try the Blackfire version of the PO106FF - they've added some lubricating oils to it, and I've had zero problems with removal (though I rarely have much humidity here); it goes a long long way via PC...you just deen a couple drops after the pad's been primed. If you own a black car, you should not be hesitant to purchase...it's a must have - I wish there was a less expensive polish that compared...but there isn't, not on black at least.
 
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