After you apply your wax...............

I use a new/clean MF towel and I usually spray a mist of water or Adam's detail spray to remove it. I'm using Adam's Butter wax though so I think the products work together not sure if water or the detail spray may make things worst on other products.



But the clean MF will definitely work.
 
pyiu said:
I use a new/clean MF towel and I usually spray a mist of water or Adam's detail spray to remove it. I'm using Adam's Butter wax though so I think the products work together not sure if water or the detail spray may make things worst on other products.



But the clean MF will definitely work.
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When I apply the wax/sealant, it's usually with the PC, so I get the coating on extremely thin. That way when it dries, removal is more of a 'wiping off' process than buffing or rubbing. I've never had to use a detail spray during removal since thin application makes removal so easy, but I might try it one of these times just for the fun of it.



I use M/F towels exclusively for wax/sealant removal.
 
Yeah if you think its easy after the PC, its even easier when you damp a MF with either detail spray or water. It wipes off not streaking unless you overloaded the MF with too much water or detail spray.
 
I just learned yesterday, from somebody who's been in the game for nearly two decades, that you should not use MF towels to remove fresh wax, as it does just that REMOVES IT. This is especially true when applying a 'nuba like S100 since you don't let it dry before removing it. This was news to me, my jaw was on the ground.
 
rkf76 said:
I just learned yesterday, from somebody who's been in the game for nearly two decades, that you should not use MF towels to remove fresh wax, as it does just that REMOVES IT. This is especially true when applying a 'nuba like S100 since you don't let it dry before removing it. This was news to me, my jaw was on the ground.
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This makes no sense to me. I understand that MF are better at grabbing stuff than towels, but we're just talking degrees here, not actual function. So, a cotton diaper will also "remove" wax, just not as well as MF. If you buff long enough with a cotton diaper or terry cloth, according to this theory, you will remove all of the wax.



Under the theory that wax shouldn't be "removed", it seems that it would be difficult to get a uniform surface. I have to admit a skepticism to this theory. Indeed, the empirical evidence seems to contradict it. Why would my car beed water better after waxing and then "removing" the wax with MF towel if the MF truly removed the wax? My experience (and I believe the overwhelming experience of others) is inconsistent with this theory.



Perhaps more experienced detailers could chime in here. On another thread, quite a few experienced detailers offered the contrasting opinion that using MF to remove wax was both acceptable and desirable.
 
rkf76 said:
I just learned yesterday, from somebody who's been in the game for nearly two decades, that you should not use MF towels to remove fresh wax, as it does just that REMOVES IT. This is especially true when applying a 'nuba like S100 since you don't let it dry before removing it. This was news to me, my jaw was on the ground.
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Anytime you rub the car's surface with anything you wear away a small portion of the wax layer. A microfiber's unique cleaning abilities may wear away more of the wax layer than a terry/cotton towel. I started noticing something along these lines a while back, but since then, I've changed techniques and products and I don't seem to notice it now.
 
In this conversation I had with the person about the MF towels, the name Anthony Orosco came up. She said he tested this theory and confirmed it. She, as most others in the detailing world, respect him and his knowledge of detailing and the processes included. So if they say you shouldn't use MF to remove the wax you just applied to your vehicle, who am I to argue?
 
rkf76 said:
In this conversation I had with the person about the MF towels, the name Anthony Orosco came up. She said he tested this theory and confirmed it. She, as most others in the detailing world, respect him and his knowledge of detailing and the processes included. So if they say you shouldn't use MF to remove the wax you just applied to your vehicle, who am I to argue?
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So I'm guessing you mean irene at top of the line?
 
On our vehicles, I've buffed various LSPs (from carnaubas to KSG) from some panels with a suede-style MF (from TOL) and from other panels with a plush MF and there was no discernable difference. Not in looks or in durability. Just to be perfectly clear: that was using different types of MF to remove the same LSP on the same vehicle during the same detail. I've never had any problems at all result from removing LSPs with plush MFs.



Perhaps there's a difference with plush MFs other than the ones I use, or with some variation in technique as practiced by others. But for me, it doesn't matter what I use as long as it's soft enough to not mar the paint.



I've also heard that one should use cotton to remove #16, and other "use this to remove that" advice. None of it ever proved true for me. Plush MF, suede-style MF, CBTs, they all work fine for me, with only minor personal preferences as far as which MF I use for what LSP.



But I *do* like TOL's suede-style bonnets on the Cyclo for LSP removal :D
 
Accumulator said:
On our vehicles, I've buffed various LSPs (from carnaubas to KSG) from some panels with a suede-style MF (from TOL) and from other panels with a plush MF and there was no discernable difference. Not in looks or in durability. Just to be perfectly clear: that was using different types of MF to remove the same LSP on the same vehicle during the same detail. I've never had any problems at all result from removing LSPs with plush MFs.



Perhaps there's a difference with plush MFs other than the ones I use, or with some variation in technique as practiced by others. But for me, it doesn't matter what I use as long as it's soft enough to not mar the paint.



I've also heard that one should use cotton to remove #16, and other "use this to remove that" advice. None of it ever proved true for me. Plush MF, suede-style MF, CBTs, they all work fine for me, with only minor personal preferences as far as which MF I use for what LSP.



But I *do* like TOL's suede-style bonnets on the Cyclo for LSP removal :D
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I hear you. Honestly, im not gonna stop using MF towels for wax removal cause as has been your experience, I also have yet to encounter any issues with doing so. That being said, I'm jonesing to try a micro-suede towel! :woot2:
 
It is very difficult to gauge with any type of accuracy just how much wax is removed or left on ones paint.



If a regular MF towel does remove more of ones wax then say a Microsuede towel, it most likely isn't anything significant. The logic though does make sense but again I am sure that it isn't anything to worry about.



Anthony
 
rkf76 said:
I just learned yesterday, from somebody who's been in the game for nearly two decades, that you should not use MF towels to remove fresh wax, as it does just that REMOVES IT. This is especially true when applying a 'nuba like S100 since you don't let it dry before removing it. This was news to me, my jaw was on the ground.
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Wrong. #16 would not have lasted nearly 6 months on a customer's truck if that were the case, especially since I had polished it with #80 and removed that with an MF as well. No residual wax left to skew the results.



I used terry cloth towels for the previous 25 years I had been cleaning cars as an enthusiast and a professional and I notice absolutely no difference in durability now that I have switched to MFs. I think Irene may have misunderstood what Anthony meant.
 
littlejohn said:
has anyone used a wool pad with rotary and try to buff the wax off to a high gloss finish??
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That is what dealers do and that is why their detailers turn out cars covered in rotary swirls.
 
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